Rabbit Breeding and Genetics of Rabbits

Breeding and genetics play a crucial role in the development and improvement of rabbit breeds. By understanding the principles of breeding and genetics, rabbit breeders can selectively breed rabbits to achieve specific traits, such as size, color, fur type, and overall health. This comprehensive knowledge allows breeders to enhance the quality and characteristics of rabbit breeds over generations.

Breeding rabbits involves the process of selecting specific individuals with desired traits to mate and produce offspring. This practice aims to pass on favorable traits from one generation to the next while minimizing undesirable traits. Breeders carefully consider various factors, including breed standards, temperament, health, and genetic diversity, when deciding which rabbits to breed.

Before breeding, it is essential to have a clear understanding of the basic principles of genetics. Each rabbit inherits genetic material from its parents in the form of chromosomes, which carry genes responsible for specific traits. These genes can be dominant or recessive, and their expression determines the physical characteristics of the offspring.

Selective breeding allows breeders to manipulate the genetic makeup of rabbits to produce desired traits. By selectively breeding rabbits with specific traits, breeders can increase the likelihood of those traits being passed on to future generations. For example, if a breeder wants to produce rabbits with a particular fur color, they will selectively breed rabbits that exhibit that color and avoid mating rabbits with undesirable colors.

Inbreeding and out breeding are two common breeding techniques used in rabbit breeding programs. Inbreeding involves mating closely related individuals, such as siblings or parent-offspring, to concentrate desired traits. While inbreeding can help fix desirable traits, it also increases the risk of inheriting genetic disorders and reducing overall genetic diversity. Therefore, inbreeding should be done cautiously, and breeders should monitor the health and vitality of the offspring closely.

On the other hand, out breeding involves mating rabbits that are unrelated or less closely related to each other. This technique helps introduce new genetic material into a breeding program, increasing genetic diversity and reducing the risk of inherited disorders. Out breeding can result in hybrid vigor, where the offspring exhibit improved health and vitality compared to their parents.

Genetic testing and phenotypic evaluation are valuable tools in rabbit breeding. Genetic testing allows breeders to identify carriers of specific genetic disorders and make informed breeding decisions to avoid passing on these disorders to future generations. Phenotype evaluation involves assessing the physical characteristics and conformation of rabbits to determine their suitability for breeding.

It is important to note that responsible breeding practices prioritize the health and welfare of the rabbits. Breeders should ensure that the rabbits are in optimal health, have suitable living conditions, and receive proper nutrition and veterinary care. Regular health screenings and vaccinations can help prevent the spread of diseases and maintain the overall well-being of the rabbit population.

In conclusion, breeding and genetics are key factors in the development and improvement of rabbit breeds. By selectively breeding rabbits and understanding the principles of genetics, breeders can enhance specific traits and ensure the overall health and quality of the rabbit population. Responsible breeding practices, including proper genetic testing and phenotype evaluation, are essential to maintain the long-term sustainability of rabbit breeds.

Rabbit housing and shelter management

Rabbit housing and shelter management are crucial aspects of ensuring the well-being and health of pet rabbits. Here are some key points to consider:

1. Hutch or Cage: Provide a spacious hutch or cage that allows the rabbit to move around freely. The enclosure should be large enough for the rabbit to stretch out fully and stand up on its hind legs without touching the top.
2. Ventilation: Ensure good ventilation in the hutch to prevent the buildup of ammonia from urine, which can be harmful to the rabbit’s respiratory system.
3. Protection: The hutch should provide protection from extreme weather conditions, predators, and other potential dangers. It should be placed in a sheltered area away from direct sunlight, drafts, and dampness.
4. Bedding: Use safe and comfortable bedding such as straw, hay, or paper-based bedding. Avoid using cedar or pine shavings as they can be harmful to rabbits.
5. Cleaning: Regularly clean the hutch to remove soiled bedding, food remnants, and droppings. This helps prevent the buildup of bacteria and odors that can be harmful to the rabbit’s health.
6. Feeding Area: Provide a separate area within the hutch for feeding to keep the food clean and prevent contamination. Ensure a fresh supply of hay, vegetables, and pellets daily.
7. Water: Always provide fresh, clean water in a water bottle or bowl. Check the water supply regularly to ensure the rabbit stays hydrated.
8. Exercise: Rabbits need regular exercise to stay healthy and prevent obesity. Consider providing a run or play area outside the hutch where the rabbit can hop around and explore safely.
9. Socialization: Rabbits are social animals and benefit from interaction with their owners. Spend time with your rabbit outside of the hutch to provide mental stimulation and strengthen the bond between you.
10. Health Monitoring: Monitor your rabbit’s health regularly by checking for any signs of illness or injury. Consult a veterinarian if you notice any changes in your rabbit’s behavior, eating habits, or appearance.
11. By following these guidelines and providing a safe, comfortable, and stimulating environment for your rabbit, you can ensure that your furry friend leads a happy and healthy life.

Feeding and nutrition of Rabbits

Feeding and nutrition are essential aspects of caring for rabbits to ensure their overall health and well-being. Here are some detailed guidelines on feeding and nutrition for rabbits:

1. Hay: High-quality hay should make up the majority of a rabbit’s diet. Hay provides essential fiber that promotes healthy digestion and helps wear down their teeth, which continuously grow. Good options include timothy hay, orchard grass, or meadow hay.
2. Fresh Vegetables: Offer a variety of fresh vegetables daily to provide essential nutrients and keep the diet interesting. Some safe options include dark leafy greens (e.g., kale, spinach, romaine lettuce), bell peppers, carrots, and herbs like parsley and cilantro. Introduce new vegetables gradually to avoid digestive upsets.
3. Pellets: Pellets formulated specifically for rabbits can be given in moderation. Choose high-quality pellets with a high fiber content and avoid mixes with nuts, seeds, or dried fruits, as these can be high in fat and sugar.
4. Water: Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. Use a water bottle or heavy ceramic bowl to prevent tipping. Check the water supply daily and refill as needed.
5. Treats: Limit commercial treats and sugary foods as they can lead to obesity and digestive issues. Safe occasional treats include small pieces of fruit like apple or banana.
6. Avoid: Avoid feeding rabbits foods that are toxic to them, such as chocolate, avocado, rhubarb, and foods high in starch or sugar. These can be harmful or even fatal to rabbits.
7. Feeding Schedule: Offer food in the morning and evening to mimic their natural feeding patterns. Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during dawn and dusk.
8. Monitor Weight: Monitor your rabbit’s weight regularly to ensure they are maintaining a healthy weight. Obesity in rabbits can lead to various health problems.
9. Gut Health: Rabbits have a delicate digestive system, so any changes in diet should be made gradually to prevent digestive upset. Ensure a constant supply of hay to keep the gut moving and prevent issues like gastrointestinal stasis.
10. Consult a Veterinarian: If you have any concerns about your rabbit’s diet, health, or nutritional needs, consult a rabbit-savvy veterinarian for guidance.
11. By providing a balanced diet rich in hay, fresh vegetables, and limited pellets, along with plenty of fresh water and occasional treats, you can help ensure your rabbit receives the necessary nutrients for a healthy and happy life.

Health care and disease prevention in Rabbits

Health care and disease prevention are vital aspects of ensuring the well-being and longevity of pet rabbits. Here is an in-depth overview of health care and disease prevention practices for rabbits:

1. Regular Veterinary Check-ups: Schedule regular check-ups with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian to monitor your rabbit’s health, address any concerns, and ensure they are up to date on vaccinations.
2. Vaccinations: Some regions recommend or require vaccinations against diseases such as rabbit hemorrhagic disease (R.H.D) and myxomatosis. Consult your veterinarian to determine the necessary vaccinations for your rabbit based on your location and risk factors.
3. Parasite Control: Regularly check your rabbit for signs of external parasites like fleas or mites. Use veterinarian-approved parasite control products to prevent infestations. Internal parasites like worms should be treated as per your vet’s recommendations.
4. Dental Care: Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously, so provide chew toys and hay to help wear them down naturally. Monitor your rabbit’s teeth for signs of overgrowth, which can lead to dental issues.
5. Grooming: Regularly groom your rabbit by brushing their fur to prevent matting and remove loose hair. Long-haired rabbits may require more frequent grooming to prevent hairballs.
6. Environmental Enrichment: Provide mental stimulation through toys, tunnels, and hiding spots to prevent boredom and stress, which can impact your rabbit’s health.
7. Monitor Eating and Drinking Habits: Keep an eye on your rabbit’s appetite, water consumption, and litter box habits. Changes in these behaviors can indicate underlying health issues.
8. Weight Management: Monitor your rabbit’s weight to prevent obesity, which can lead to various health problems. Ensure they have adequate exercise and a balanced diet to maintain a healthy weight.
9. Recognize Signs of Illness: Learn to recognize common signs of illness in rabbits, such as changes in behavior, decreased activity, poor appetite, abnormal feces, eye or nose discharge, or difficulty breathing. Prompt veterinary attention is crucial if you notice any of these signs.
10. Quarantine New Additions: If introducing a new rabbit to your household, quarantine them for a period recommended by your veterinarian to prevent the spread of potential diseases.
11. Clean Environment: Maintain a clean living environment for your rabbit by regularly cleaning their hutch or cage, providing fresh bedding, and ensuring good ventilation to prevent respiratory issues.
12. Education and Research: Stay informed about common health issues in rabbits and educate yourself on proper care practices to provide the best possible care for your pet.

By implementing these health care and disease prevention measures, you can help ensure that your rabbit stays healthy, happy, and free from preventable illnesses. Regular veterinary care, a balanced diet, a clean environment, and attentive monitoring are key components of maintaining your rabbit’s well-being.

Rabbit reproduction and breeding techniques

Rabbits have a high reproductive rate compared to other livestock. They become sexually mature within a few months of birth and have relatively short pregnancies. They produce large litters and are unique in that they can be rebred immediately after kindling (giving birth). With an intensive breeding program, a doe can be expected to have 60 weaned young a year. Such intensive breeding is not recommended, however, for the beginner and is seldom used in commercial production.

Breeding Schedule
When setting up a breeding system for your rabbit, your first consideration should be your purpose for raising rabbits. If you’re raising rabbits for meat, you may want to produce as many fryers as possible. If you’re mostly interested in showing rabbits, you may want to have only a few litters each year and time them to provide stock of the proper age for showing.

Rabbit breeding schedules are usually based on 7-day intervals for ease in record-keeping. Many commercial rabbit producers will breed does back 14 to 21 days after kindling. A 35-day breed-back schedule is recommended. You can shorten the interval between kindling and breeding as you gain experience. However, intensive breeding programs may increase the number of does culled (put down) annually due to “burn out”.

No matter what breeding schedule you use, always check the condition of the rabbits before mating them. It would not be wise to mate a doe again in poor condition or one nursing a large litter 21 days after kindling, as it could affect her reproductive performance. This could result in poor fertility, a small litter or high death rate in the young produced. Make sure the doe is in acceptable health conditions to limit risk of potential problems. When possible, mate several does on the same day or within a few days of one another. Kindling will take place at about the same time (28 to 32 days later), which will make fostering the young easier if it becomes necessary. Does should be expected to produce seven or eight young in a litter, but they may occasionally have smaller or bigger litters, depending on the specific breed of rabbit.

Mature bucks can be used daily for single mating over long periods without affecting their fertility. However, if they are used to service several does within a day or two, they should be allowed to rest for a few days before mating again.

In large commercial rabbits, one buck may be kept for each 10 to 15 does, while small producers may need a buck to doe ratio of 1 to 5 or even 1 to 2. An intensive breeding program will require more bucks to service the same number of does than a less intensive breeding schedule. Remember to use the same buck with the same does during the breeding to ensure the correct pedigree.

Age to Breed
Different breeds of rabbits reach sexual maturity at different ages. The smaller breeds become sexually mature earlier than the larger breeds. Small breeds (such as the Polish) can be bred at 4 to 5 months of age. Medium breeds (for example New Zealand and Californians) become sexually mature at 6 to 7 months of age. The giant breeds (such as the Flemish Giant) should be at least 7 months of age when bred. The females of all rabbit breeds reach sexual maturity earlier than the males. This means that does can be put into production before bucks of a similar age.

Mating
When does become receptive to mating, they will usually show signs of being in heat. They may act restless, rub their chins on feed and water containers or other equipment, and show a desire to join other rabbits. The vulva (external genital organ of the female) of does that are ready to mate is slightly swollen, moist and a reddish, purplish color. A small, dry, pale (whitish) vulva means that the doe is not ready to breed. The doe may also ”present herself,” and lie on her stomach or lift her tail when touched, if she is in heat. Before any mating attempts, examine both the buck and doe to be sure they are in good condition and free of disease and injury.

Always take a doe to the buck’s cage for mating. Does are territorial, and another animal being placed in her cage may cause her to become defensive. Also, if a buck is placed in a strange cage, he may spend a long time sniffing around the cage before breeding the doe. When a doe that is ready for mating is placed with an active, experienced buck, mating should occur almost immediately. Of course, mating young inexperienced stock may require more time than mating experienced breeders. At the completion of the mating act, the buck will usually fall over backwards or on his side.

Some rabbit raisers allow the buck to mate with the doe twice before returning the doe to her cage. Others prefer to take the doe back to the same buck for a second mating 8 to 12 hours after the first mating. Be sure to record the date of all mating so that you prepare for kindling (such as placing a nest box in the doe’s cage) at the proper time.

Often a doe will refuse to mate with a buck. When this happens, try her with another buck or return her to the cage and try her again in 2 to 4 days. Don’t leave a doe unattended in a buck’s cage. An aggressive buck and a non-receptive doe left alone together could hurt each other. In some cases, it may be necessary to restrain a doe for mating. Do this by holding the doe by the shoulders with one hand. Place your other hand under her body between the hind legs (this raises her hindquarters to the normal height for service) and move her tail up or to one side. Most bucks will readily adapt to such assistance by the rabbit raiser.

Breeding Problems
Rabbits often show a natural decline in productivity during the late summer, fall and early winter. Both reception and conception rate may decrease during this time. Selecting breeders from stock that produces well all year will help ensure good production during this period.

Exposure to temperatures over 85 °F for 5 consecutive days can cause temporary sterility in bucks. Old bucks tend to be more susceptible to heat than younger bucks and can remain sterile for 60 to 90 days. To help reduce male sterility due to hot weather, keep breeding bucks in the coolest part of the rabbitry, and mate them frequently.

Pseudopregnancy (false pregnancy) is a condition in which a doe seems to be pregnant but is not. This can result from a sterile mating or from physical stimulation, such as being mounted by another rabbit, which causes a physiological response in the doe, resembling pregnancy. During pseudo-pregnancy, which lasts about 17 days, the doe will not breed. She may also construct a nest, even though she may not be expecting. Although the condition is normal and not harmful to the doe, it will delay breeding.

Another common reproductive problem occurs when does fail to conceive after mating. This is usually because they are overweight or have been out of production for a long period. Excessively overweight bucks can also pose a problem because they tend to be lazy and lack libido (sexual desire). Poor physical condition, old age, disease, injury and inadequate nutrition are other factors that can cause reproductive problems. As a rabbit raiser, you should strive to keep your breeding animals in a trim, active and healthy condition for the best reproductive performance.

Rabbit behavior and socialization

Common Behaviors
Indicators of Health Problems
Common Behaviors
Rabbits exhibit a wide range of natural behaviors:

Digging. Digging is an instinctive behavior for rabbits. In nature, rabbits dig to create safe places in which to hide, sleep or reproduce underground. Male rabbits also make small deposits of feces in areas they have dug up to mark their territory.

Jumping. Running and jumping are protective mechanisms that allow rabbits to escape predators and harm. Their jumping skills provide a means of overcoming obstacles quickly. Additionally, rabbits can twist their bodies around when they jump and land facing a completely different direction as a useful trick when being chased by a hungry predator.

Vocalization. Rabbits tend to be relatively quiet animals, but they do exhibit some basic sounds. A happy rabbit may make a low purring sound, a soft clicking or a slow quiet grinding of its teeth. When a rabbit is being aggressive, it grunts, growls or makes loud teeth grinding noises. Pain and fear can also be expressed by loud teeth-grinding noises. In the most severe cases of pain or fear, a rabbit emits a piercing scream, which serves to shock a predator and give the rabbit time to get away.

Scent Marking. Rabbits have scent glands beneath their chins, making scent an important way for rabbits to communicate with each other. Rabbits use feces to mark their territory and emit a clear secretion from their scent glands to mark other important items.

Postures. Over time, you may come to recognize certain rabbit postures and what they mean to your pet. For example, a relaxed rabbit will lay on its side or belly with the hind legs stretched out. A rabbit that squats down with its ears folded back against its head is also a bunny in a relaxed state. Submissiveness is indicated when a rabbit makes itself look small, crouches as flat as possible and stays very still. Its eyes will look relaxed, not tense. When a rabbit is fearful, its posture is similar to that of a submissive bunny, but its eyes look tense and it will press its body and ears down tightly and downward, as if it is trying to hide from a predator. A rabbit shows distaste by shaking its head. A rabbit’s tail is used as a signaling device when there is danger. Rabbits thump their tails rapidly on the ground to warn other rabbits of danger. They will also dash away from a danger with the white underside of the tail raised, which is essentially a warning signal to other rabbits nearby.

Urine Spraying. Male rabbits spray urine to mark their territories and during heightened period of sexuality if they have not been neutered.

top indicators of Health Problems
Behaviors that suggest a rabbit is experiencing a physical or mental health problem include:

Lethargy. A rabbit’s natural state is active. If your pet isn’t moving around a lot, chewing, hopping or digging, something is probably wrong.
Aggression. Rabbits in captivity have no normal reasons for displaying aggression as long as they are neutered or spayed. If your pet exhibits aggression, it may be suffering from a health problem or a lack of adequate socialization.
Continual Chewing of Cage Bars. This may be a signal of a dental health problem or one of isolation or boredom.
Loss of Appetite. Rabbits experiencing dental or gastrointestinal problems sometimes show it by cutting back on their food intake or being pickier about what they will or won’t eat.
Obsessive Grooming. Rabbits that obsessively chew their fur may be having an allergy, health or socialization problem.
Destroying Cage Contents. Destructive behaviors are usually a sign of a rabbit that is too confined, not getting enough exercise and/or doesn’t have enough toys or activities to keep engaged.
Constant Shaking of the Head. This behavior is clearly a health problem that may be associated with a dental or respiratory problem.
Please note: In cases of bleeding or exposed bones, take your rabbit to a veterinarian immediately.